Pointing a Finger at Caligula

Tirana

Until two years ago, Albanian theaters and cinemas showed only authors of a proven ideological orientation. Western cultural goods could not be found here. Now everything coming from the "corrupt" West can be seen, but ideology and "instruction" are still a part of the general scene. Albert Camus' Caligula has been playing for months in Tirana, and its high attendance is not just the result of the performance's artistic merits. Critics claim that people come because they like to recognize "their" Caligula and other lesser ones. Whosoever wishes to do so, can substitute former Albanian Communist leaders Enver Hoxha or Ramiz Alija for the original Caligula.

Democratic processes have certainly yielded results in Albania. On the other hand, Albanian intellectuals believe that they would be even better if all misfortunes were not always laid at the feet of the "other, former Caligula". They are thinking of the ruling Democratic Party's campaign promises and its leader Sali Berisha.

Changes in Albania are highly visible in comparison with the situation of just a few months ago. This is borne out by the way Tirana looks today, something hard to imagine once. The streets, including the main square have been inundated with makeshift shops (usually knocked together from boards, and selling goods from all over the world).

There are a lot of technical goods, as can be seen by the facades of buildings which are covered with satellite dishes (they are relatively cheap here - a larger sat dish costs 210 US dollars). The city streets are crowded with cars leaving the impression that all are in a hurry to get somewhere.

Official sources speak of great undertakings in the economy, especially with regard to privatization. A very important project is the return of confiscated land to its previous owners (even though the yields from these plots are much lower than in Hoxha's day). Albania has great hopes of hitting it rich with oil. Several important Soviet firms have announced plans to start drilling. New projects have been announced in the field of transportation and they are of great importance for future development. First on the list is the construction of the Southern Balkan traffic route (along with Macedonia, Turkey and some other countries). It is expected that the main railway and road networks linking the Middle East and the Black Sea will go via Durres and Italy (the port of Bari) thus linking up with Western Europe.

The expected invasion of foreign capital has not come about. Those in the know claim that small businesses and a great number of cars are simply a reflection of the smuggling, which is consciously supported by the state in order that a growing army of unemployed might have some sort of an occupation, and that the exodus might be halted. Many Albanian firms do not work at all, including those which are the most vital part of the economy.

Resourcefulness (a smuggler's economy) has resulted in the stratification of society, which some researchers believe to be much greater than under the former regime - when all Albanians were equal in poverty. A large segment of the population lives a hard life (one kilo of bread costs nearly one dollar, while an average salary or pension is around 40 dollars). The Albanian currency, the lek, has become "convertible" (it hasn't changed value in the last few months, and has even strengthened). Economists are cautious and do not wish to comment much, believing that this is due to occasional financial injections from abroad. They also think that this money is pushing the economy into an even deeper abyss. All this is being done in order to "create an illusion of alleged economic strength", said an eminent banker from Tirana. Many other processes in Albania remain unclear. One thing is certain - there will be no going back to Communism. No one is urging a return to the old system, nor do the people wish it. It is believed that others, and not just the Caligulas should be sought out. The opposition is growing stronger and is prepared to set up coalitions. On the other hand, Berisha often claims that the matter concerns a "restoration" of the former system and a struggle for power.

It could happen that when no one comes to see Camus' piece any longer (it is believed that there is very little interest in Albania for revanchism and court proceedings against Enver Hoxha's widow, Ramiz Alija or other top officials), Albania's road to democracy and its place in the Balkans will become a lot clearer...